Dominica

Dominica is a mountainous volcanic island in the Lesser Antilles, between Guadeloupe and Martinique, with the Caribbean Sea to the west and the Atlantic to the east. Rainforest covers its peaks, the highest being Morne Diablotins. Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, holds the Boiling Lake, a day’s hike, Emerald Pool, a waterfall above a green pool, and Titou Gorge, a canyon you swim through to a waterfall. Near the small capital, Roseau, are Trafalgar Falls, hot springs and sulphur baths.

The coast has black volcanic sand and, in the north-east, golden-sand bays. The calm west coast suits swimming: at Champagne Reef volcanic bubbles rise through the water, and Scotts Head at the southern tip is a favourite for snorkelling and diving. Sperm whales live offshore, watched from boats, most often from about November to March. The Waitukubuli National Trail crosses the island to Cabrits National Park in the north-west.

Food is simple: fresh fish, tropical fruit, local coffee and a hot cocoa drink, plus Creole home cooking such as callaloo, a soup of leafy greens. It is warm all year; the drier season runs roughly February to May, the wetter one roughly July to November. Dominica suits couples and travellers after a quiet nature escape, with rainforest, waterfalls and the sea close together.